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In more recent years, about a third of all Marshallese – some 20,000 people – have made a further journey, across the Pacific to the United States. Many leave the islands in search of the same things as other migrants – work, education, health care. Following the Second World War, the United States used the islands as a testing ground for its nuclear weapons program, detonating more than 60 bombs over a dozen years.The largest, the “Castle Bravo” test, blew a crater 6,510 feet wide in the lagoon of Bikini Atoll and ignited a fireball visible from 250 miles away. And it’s accelerated by climate change, which has started to drown the low-lying archipelago. was just a matter of saving money for the plane ticket; the door was open. Granted residency but not citizenship, the Marshallese have virtually no political influence and rank as the single poorest ethnic group in the U. In 1996, the Personal Responsibility and Work Opportunity Reconciliation Act of 1996 (or welfare reform) eliminated federal health care funding for Marshallese by excluding them from the group of “qualified aliens” who are eligible for benefits.Children on neighboring islands played in the ashy fallout, which fell like snow from the sky. Terry Mote arrived in Enid in 2007, after spending two nights at the airport in Honolulu, eating from vending machines while he waited for a standby spot on a flight east. It was only once he arrived that he realized how many other doors lay between him and the life he’d imagined. That means that Marshallese citizens who live, work and pay taxes in the U. are ineligible for Medicaid and Medicare unless states opt to provide it. Mote loves Enid, but life is more difficult than he anticipated.Today, thanks to a treaty signed when the Marshall Islands gained independence from the U. in 1986, Marshallese citizens are allowed to live and work in the States. This mass migration is driven in part by poverty and lack of services in the islands. It was as if he’d been locked in the hallway of a beautiful house: inside, but not really. Rent and groceries are expensive, and there is the problem of the funerals.There’s a symphony orchestra, a local newspaper and a number of churches.Grain elevators, meatpacking plants, and strip malls border the town before it falls away into farmland; to the south lies Vance Air Force Base.For some 2,000 years, his ancestors found their way in the 750,000 square miles of south Pacific Ocean punctuated by the narrow coral islets that make up the Marshall Islands.

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Most of the islanders in Enid live on the city’s eastern flank.

There was no electricity, and when it rained, water came through chinks in the walls. He walked to school, several miles one way down the skinny island’s single road. When there was no food at home he climbed coconut trees. Years later, he would represent the Marshall Islands at the Micronesian Olympic Games, and ran on the 4×400 relay team that still holds his country’s record. military control of their territory, COFA allows citizens of the Marshall Islands (and of the Federated States of Micronesia and Palau; collectively they are known as the Freely Associated States) to move to the U. In Enid, there’s work in meat processing plants and at big box stores. S., Mote worked as a curator at a museum, traveling to outer islands to collect folktales.

Mote is 41 now, with a round face and a demeanor that shifts between earnestness and jest. is based on a treaty called the Compact of Free Association (COFA). His first job in Enid was at the circulation desk of the public library.

He carried his briefcase, in which he keeps copies of his family’s official documents.

It was Saturday, and he was helping several young Marshallese men fill out applications for work permits.

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